Last night Carol and I made plans do do some exploring of the neighboring peninsula, the land that runs up between Trinity Bay to the west and Conception Bay to the east. This is known as the Bay de Verde Peninsula. Here we found several points of interest that might be worth a look.
SS Kyle, aground in Harbor Grace, since 1965!
We had our breakfast and coffee and were on the road in good order, heading west. Our plan was to take a leisurely drive around the majority of the cape. The early Sunday morning drive was almost void of traffic. Our first stop was Harbour Grace. There is a ship in the harbor there that had run aground in 1967. She is the transport ship SS Kyle, built in 1913 and served transporting troops during both of the world wars, carrying cargo and was even used as an ice breaker in winter. She has been abandoned and now just serves as a curiosity in the harbor.
Amelia stands proud in Harbour Grace
She sits hard aground as a backdrop to the memorial to Amelia Earhart. Harbor Grace was the take off point for Amelia Earhart's historic flight across the Atlantic in 1932. The first woman to solo the Atlantic. There was also a great old Douglas DC3 sitting there in the lawn. Interesting stop indeed.
We wandered up the road to Carbonear, found some more coffee and a couple of raisin scones. We had heard that the small town of Victoria was having a car show at the Heritage Village, we headed that way. When we pulled into the park area the car show seemed to consist of one blue Corvette, and the Heritage Village was a collection of miniature buildings. There was a guy collecting a fee at the entrance of the driveway. We elected to move on, but you know it is still comforting to see that this sort of event happens everywhere.
TransAtlantic Cable Station
We kept wandering and cut over to the west side of the peninsula and found the town of Hearts Content. This is where the first transatlantic cable was connected back in 1858. North America to Europe, connected by a cable, in 1858, amazing. You certainly can find some very cool history just by poking around.
Further up the west coast we came to Winterton and the Wooden Boat Museum of Newfoundland and Labrador. This small museum is preserving the history of boatbuilding in the traditional manner.
Harper always draws a crowd.
Inside the museum several young kids fell in love with Harper, and told us all about their dogs. This is always entertaining and we never tire of happy kids who want to pet Harper and lavish her with attention. Harper likes it too.
I would love to have a shop like this.
They not only preserving but teaching to new generations the methods of the builders of the area. They hold workshops every summer and have an amazing workshop. The museum itself had quite a wonderful collection of small wooden boats and the history of their builders. The entire boatbuilding process is laid out in a logical and easily understood manner. We got a nice private tour by a very interesting young man named Drake.
So much to see, and Harper was welcomed in the museum.
It was a fine visit. We started our journey back down the west coast of the peninsula and passed back through Hearts Content and into Hearts Desire and and on into Hearts Delight. All three of these town precede the town of Dildo. I'm not making this up.
Wait, WHAT!
Dildo has become somewhat famous as they have copied the famous Hollywood sign and high on a hill, overlooking town, in giant letters, it says DILDO. This apparently got the attention on Jimmy Kimmel and now he wants to be mayor...
Just like Hollywood!
We stopped at the Dildo Brewery and had a beer sitting on the docks looking across the bay at the DILDO hillside. It was a great place to visit and rounded off the travels quite nicely.
Dog in Dildo.
An hour or so later we were back in St. John's looking for supper. We figured a quiet night in, maybe some Chinese food tonight. The gps took us to where the Chinese food was supposed to be but it had become a fish and chips shop. That works too. We got a couple of fish and chips to go. Fresh Cod right off the boat.
Fresh Cod, and chips!
The fish and chips place is owned by two fishermen who provide all the fish for their restaurant. I love local places like this. The fish was so fresh and tasty too. A nice finish for the evening.
Monday:
Today is the day before we begin our trek back to the ferry that is in Port aux Basques some 900 kilometers away. Our ferry back to the mainland leaves Thursday at 11:45 in the morning. So today we are going to squeeze in some last minute sight seeing. One of the things that Carol wanted to see is the tribute to the two dogs that have been named after this province, Newfoundlands and Labradors.
Big Dog, Little Dog
We made our way down to Harbourside Park where these statues reside. This is an awesome park and it is indeed right on the working waterfront. We read all the placards and informational signs. Shipping is a big deal in this little harbor and we were surprised to find out the Sir Francis Drake was here, as was Lord Nelson (when he was a Captain), Captain James Cook and Captain Bligh also came to this port in their travels, and here we stand, where they have stood. Ah, history.
Sketching on the waterfront.
As we were there on the dock, one of the offshore support vessels was entering the harbor. The Atlantic Griffon, 6053 gross tons, 86 meters (282 feet) long by 23 meters (76 feet)wide. We watched it make its slow approach.
We have not seen any pilot boats so I am guessing the ships have a pilot onboard due to the nature of their work. The ship pulled parallel to the dock, about 50 yards out, then with its thrusters moved perfectly sideways to within a few feet from the dock before the first line came ashore. An amazingly well done docking.
More Support vessels heading in.
Looking to sea, there were two other of these Offshore Support Vessels coming into the harbor. There was a US Navy destroyer docking across the harbor and a ship offloading salt just behind the Atlantic Griffon, the OSV Calvert was making preparation to get underway. This town just keeps giving.
Quidi Vidi, a working town in a secluded harbour.
We decided to give Quidi Vidi one more chance, as it was still morning, and Labor Day. We made our way through the maze of narrow winding streets and lanes and there was still no parking available anywhere near the waterfront. But we did find a spot halfway up a steep hillside. It was an easy walk down to the waterfront in this quaint little village and things were just beginning to get set up for the day. Food trucks we lining up and opening their businesses and a tent was being set up. We took lots of pictures and it looked like there might be some seating on the balcony of the Brewery.
Beer made with 20,000 iceberg water…fresh!
We walked over to see if they would allow Harper to join us on the balcony. It was not an issue and we had a nice table overlooking the narrow harbor of this working fishing village. We each got an Iceberg beer in a souvenir glass (because we are tourists) and sandwiches and sat and enjoyed the view.
Harper the art critic
Harper got a bit of my turkey, and made several friends as well. After our lunch we walked around for a while and made our way back to the car and then off to 'The Rooms' - a museum - and is 'Newfoundland and Labrador’s largest public cultural space'.
We love museums. . .
The Rooms has a couple of very nice art galleries and different smaller well focused museums within the rooms. It also has a very nice view looking over the city and into the harbor. We spent a couple of hours there, absorbing everything. I love museums.
A view of the Harbor from ‘The Rooms’
Now we are back at the AirBNB, Carol is doing laundry and I am sitting here with my laptop trying to say something interesting. St. John's has been home base for our explorations the past few days, it couldn't have been better.
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