Chicago to Peoria, The Great Loop

August 31, 1999

After the departure of La Ti Da, we decided to move on to Chicago but weather had prevented us from venturing out into Lake Michigan. We went about a half a mile out, it got very uncomfortable very fast so we turned and went back inside the seawall, which protects Milwaukee. Moving a bit south from the Milwaukee Yacht Club we found the South Side Yacht Club where we stayed for another two nights before moving on. We liked Milwaukee and the friendly people there, although we had a difficult time finding a place to send email. (And actually the last newsletter) We did find some good Wisconsin cheeses and some polish mustard, always a bonus. Carol and I spent a good part of the day riding our bikes around the nicely groomed neighborhoods of the South Side. On Friday the 20th we left and motored out into a two foot following swell and turned south toward Chicago fifty-four miles away.

That ship is the Yacht Club clubhouse. Vera Segunda looks so small.

Carol, wine in hand, at the Columbia Yacht Club.

At seven miles an hour it proved to be a long day. We left at 0620 and entered Illinois water at 1050, yeah! As we made our approach, the first buildings became visible at a distance of thirty-eight miles, and as we came closer we could see that they were preparing for an air show. We later found out that the Air and Water Show draws over two million people into the Chicago area. The Thunderbirds gave us a grand welcome as we neared the windy city. We secured accommodations at the Columbia Yacht Club, which uses an old ferry as a clubhouse. Jerry, the dockmaster was most helpful and the clubhouse was great, but the actual spot that we ended up was not the most comfortable place. Our fenders hardly mated with the dock so it was difficult to board, and we rocked all night. We called old friends from Rehoboth who now live in Chicago and made plans. Bob and Sheila met us at the Yacht Club, toured Vera Segunda, which we all know takes sooo long and we went off in search of a cab and dinner. We dined at a place called the Flat Top, which is almost impossible to explain, except that you pick you food and they prepare a stir-fry, or soup or whatever out of it. Very good food, and All You Can Eat!!! We also got to see Bob and Sheila's apartment and see pictures of the kids. Boy is it ever good to see familiar faces; we had a very good visit. We also got to view "Cows on Parade" as we drove through the city. Apparently over 320 fiberglass cows, which had corporate sponsorships, were painted by artists and have been placed throughout the city. What a clever thing.

Entering the first lock on the Chicago River - big city up ahead

The next morning, after checking our email using the credit card machines' phone line in the bar, at the club house, we cast off our lines and headed into Chicago, through the lock, and into the Chicago Shipping and Sanitary Canal. Sounds lovely doesn't it? Well the fact of the matter is, it is beautiful all through the downtown area. We motored right through the heart of the city and saw even more cows on parade, and many fantastic buildings. And we were traveling against the flow of traffic as it was early Saturday morning, the day of the air show and it seemed as though every boat registered in the State of Illinois was in the river heading for the Lake and the Air Show.

Going through Downtown Chicago, we passed under 72 bridges on this day.

All was going well until we reached a very low railroad bridge. I had lowered the mast once again so we could fit under the bridges and measured our highest point above the water. We are exactly eleven feet six inches with every thing in the down position; the bridge was ten feet off the water! We ended up waiting for over an hour as train after train went over the bridge, some even stopping on the bridge and getting broken and retrieved by other engines. Once through here it was smooth sailing and becoming increasingly more industrial. We began seeing lots of barge traffic after we passed the junction with the Calumet SAG Canal. We passed refineries, sand and gravel places, scrap yards, cement and grain facilities and a variety of other businesses as we headed south. Through the town of Joliet, we passed La Ti Da, tied to the town dock. We went on, and through the next lock to find a marina for the evening.

First encounter with real commercial traffic. Tied to a barge in a lock on the Chicago Shipping and Sanitary Canal.

This marina was right out of "Deliverance", the power was wired so poorly we did not attempt to plug in and none of the docks felt secure, and they were lined with old torn and rotted couches and chairs. I guess it was a "working man's" marina. We moved on early the next morning before any unusual demands could be made... We were now cruising the Illinois River and it is beautiful.

Commercial traffic along the Illinois River

The river brings back a lot of child hood memories and it is beginning to feel like home, as I grew up in Illinois and spent a lot of time along the creeks and rivers. You can feel the history in this area. A couple of miles south of the marina was our first lock and it only took a few minutes to lock through, very easy and expedient... however the next lock at Marseilles (pronounced Mar-sales - not french at all) took us over two hours to get through. We had to wait for a tow, (which is what they call the tow boat and barges together and the tow boat actually pushes and never tows!) which had to be broken into two pieces and locked through separately. We entered the lock with the back half of the tow and the towboat. The tow was originally three barges wide and five barges long for a total of fifteen barges with the towboat centered at the rear. The first break was nine barges rafter together and when we entered the lock the remaining six barges and the towboat were in the lock. There was not enough room between the barges and the lock wall to even put a canoe. Six pleasure boats squeezed into the lock on either side of the towboat, and no one could leave until he had gone, as there was no room to pass. We had to wait for the tow to reconnect to its first break and leave the lock. And of course when the tow went to leave it churned the water so much that we all bounced around quite a lot.

My Dad was aboard for a couple of days, this was such a treat.

This day brought us to Starved Rock Marina where we were to pick up a passenger, my Dad. I called home after we secured the boat in the marina and gave Mom directions on how to find us. Carol and I had a pleasant evening filled with anticipation of seeing Mom and Dad. They were to arrive at nine thirty or so but as I was walking up to get rid of some trash at eight thirty they were pulling into the lot. It was so good to see them and they looked well and happy. Mom's friend Donna was with them as well as Mom wanted company for the ride home; Dad was staying with us. Dad made himself at home as we shoved off from the dock and headed toward the Starved Rock Lock and Dam. Mom and Donna drove ahead and chatted with the lockmaster and waited for us to arrive. We got through easily and were able to chat with Mom and Donna for a short while as we began our decent. Soon they were out of sight and the doors opened and we were on our way down the river. Dad enjoyed the scenery from the flybridge until it started to rain. We retired into the main cabin and motored from the inside helm. The river was spectacular even in the light rain. The afternoon cleared and we headed for the town of Henry. We tied inside an old lock at Henry, it was actually the first lock built on the Illinois River and has long since been abandoned. Dad, Carol and I walked to the Tugboat Tap at the marina and enjoyed a cold one. Here we met a guy named Gary who owns a logging operation and has been cutting soft maple along the river. To our surprise he loaned us his truck and we went off for a tour of beautiful downtown Henry, Illinois. We got some supplies at the local grocery and Carol picked up some black and white post cards at the pharmacy... they even gave her a bumper sticker that proclaimed her love for Henry. We returned the truck, walked to the boat and watched an approaching storm.

I threw and extra line around the tree that we were tied to just as the skies opened up. It rained! It really rained! As Carol set out a spectacular Italian dinner we watched the rain the wind and the lightening from our secure little spot between the rock walls of the old lock. We were visited late that evening by a lot of white geese who seemed to think it was our duty to feed them. The next morning we headed south once more, with Peoria as our destination. It was an uneventful day other than the fact that I got to spend it with Dad and Carol and reminisce about growing up, and get another history lesson from Dad, and watching the wildlife. We arrived in Peoria at 1300 and tied port side to the face dock at the Peoria Boat Club.

That was one week ago today and we will be here for another two weeks. We have been bust visiting with Mom and Dad and my brother Dan and his wife Kriss and we hope to catch up with some old friends as well during our stay. Another surprise was that La Ti Da also came to Peoria and we reunited with them for a while. All is well between us, there was a need for a separation and the reunion went well. They moved on today and we have made some tentative plans to meet further down the road, maybe on the Tennessee River or???. I have been doing repairs, maintenance and other chores. It is good to know that you will be somewhere for a while and can find the things you need. Peoria has turned out to be a great town. This weekend is a blues festival and last weekend was the Irish festival. Dan and Kriss took us to a Harley Rodeo and a balloon festival and my Illinois accent is beginning to creep back into my speech patterns. We are splitting our time between the boat and Mom and Dads. Here at the boat club we have met many fine folks, some of whom are going to be heading south soon, so we may be traveling with others as well. Carol is flying back to New England next Monday to take care of some things there, but this will be after Jason (out son is moving to California) stops for a visit this weekend on his way west. We are searching for charts of the waters we are going to be going through, they seem to be scarce, but a store back home is hot on the trail.

Bridges Passed Under/Through 386.

Locks 49 Miles Traveled 2214

Average speed 7 mph

9 States 2 Countries

94 Days

"I once knew a writer who, after saying beautifu things about the sea, passed through a Pacific Hurricane, and he became a changed man." Joshua Slocum